STORE SHOUTS X BLACK MARKET

BLACK MARKET
S:T ERIKSGATAN 79
113 32 STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

GREAT STORE!!!
Great mix of brands that produce at high end quality but have a progressive design edge. Reminds me of the first time I went to Union or shopping at I heart or Nom de Guerre..

Black Market is a lot like Nom De Guerre. Not at all copying but they have a lot of the same features that make each store respectfully great: Both are underground, both are quite progressive in the brand selection, both give customers that feeling of involvement, and most importantly BOTH HAVE A GREAT UNDERSTANDING OF THE INDUSTRY & BRAND SATURATION. That is really important when finding "your" store to invest those hard earned dollars. These 2 stores won't stuck the energy out of your favorite brand.

Before I get to telling you why I adore this store so much let me state that every person I meet, during intital conversation, would make a point got to say, "Have you been to Black Market?"
Seriously.....
I thought Black Market was giving out free XBOX 360 with every purchase. Even at competing retail stores, I would talk brands/labels to the buyers or owners and always they would say either "Black Market carries them" or "Have you been to Black Market?".

Store Owner Ceclia Watson is no follower in fashion. She has top shelf years in the the industry and the knowledge to back it up. Before opening her store, she was store manager for another well known store Beneath(I think Johan from A.W.B used to own it). Beneath was a premium store located in Soderlman, Stockholm(nice area) and then later in a photo studio in Kungsholmen. Around for a little over 3 years, Beneath made a serious impact on the fashion scene stocking some of the finest in high end contemporary street like Perks & Mini, Kim Jones, Edwin, Atmos, and super rare/vintage Nikes to name a few. Beneath was also known for it's revolving art shows and collection of hard to find books, magazines, and toys. Hmm...

My first journey to Black Market was kinda funny. Located in S:t Eriksplan of Stockholm, which is where I stay when I'm in Stockholm, I had never seen this illustrious store everybody kept asking me about. I didn't know that I had actually been to the store several times thinking it was this really humble Swedish art gallery.

In my defense there was a nice exhibit by Audrey Litterman and .doris..



If I had only looked beyond the steps I would have saw their array of design and fashion books and magazines.


FOR THE WOMEN...




Full stock of luxury cosmetics offering with brands like Kiehls, Shu Uemura & Comme des Garçons to name a few








Really nice women's section...


Black Market store is something different in itself. One, Black Market has one of the best mens' section I have been to in a long time. I find that quite interesting. Most stores of this caliber usually have a very precise and calculated men's section that accentuates the women section. Those stores are good but funny, their men's section are like the "in-flight" movie for men while women shop. Like they spend just enough on men's so that there women customers don't have to hear complaints from there male counterparts. Point being, I can't remember the last time I seen such a thorough men's section.

Black Market carries a wide array of accessories, I quickly noticed the tartan Comme des Garçons fedora and wallets. Also noticed the accessories offering from Perks and Mini too.


I was saying earlier how Black Market is different and one of the most noticeably attributes is the colors, shapes, and patterns throughout the store's clothing. One of the few stores in Scandinavia(in the world) of this caliber that stocks such viberate garments. Most of the higher end stores carry only dark tonal colors.... blacks, greys, dark navys. Rather refreshing to walk into all the color and shapes displayed in Black Market underground store.

Black Market carries 2 of my favorite Norwegian/ Scandinavian brands.. Henrik Vibskov and Our Legacy.
The Vibskov cardigan is so nice. Our Legacy has really nice tartan button up shirts. Our Legacy prices are on point too. It's hard to see how they are able to produce such garments at low prices.

Black Market also stocks the new shoes from Italian mega store, Slam Jam. BePositive..
BePositive shoes kind of remind me of Clae shoes but are pretty cool in their own rite. Nice cut, not sure on the sizing though didn't try them on


Lots of Comme des Garçons love..
If Comme des Garçons was tier'd Black Market would be tier zero. They have C.D.G. pieces I have yet to see anywhere else. The striped piece to the right is one. Danish brand SNS-herning collaboration with C.D.G.. I have yet to see anybody with this piece.
I remember the days of the blazer i.e. Thanks Kanye West for making them tacky. I know most wouldn't dare wear one(especially with jeans) but this C.D.G blazer is rather tempting. I want this blazer umm hint hint..

Out of all the great brands(check their brand-list, awesome!!!) one of the best things about Black Market is the knowledge of Ceclia Watson. She told me one of the sweetest stories about C.D.G. Could easily substitute as a bed time story for any budding fashion designer.

I hope she doesn't mind me sharing this...
Okay so I was talking about Danish brand SNS-Herning. Black Market has been carrying the brand for awhile. The brand has been increasing sales every year and the buzz was starting to set.

Quick history/notes: The famous knit wear from Central Jutland, Denmark, SNS-Herning began its humble journey in 1931. Soren Neilsen Skyt, a local danish wool sweater salesman to the moor fisherman, heard of a new technicque used in hand knitting for insulation. Thinking of his local countryman who needed quality wool sweaters to bar the rough winters at sea. Skst perfected a sewing/knitting machine that could reproduce the knit technique for the above sweater properly named, "the fisherman". If you can see the sweater is knitted with bubble like sewing technique which works like a chamber to store heat, kind of insulation tactic (Think Canadian Goose of sweaters I tried it on it is super warm). If you don't believe me take the word of the sea. This particular garment is a perennial favorite amongst fisherman throughout the land.
The awesome thing is after 77 years, "the fisherman" sweater is produced in the same old manner with the same exact machine used for the first sweater. One of my favorite things about SNS-Herning is the nod to quality. Not the brand to over saturate, their production is rather small and each product is hand-signed. Oh yea "the fisherman" sweater has a life time guarantee(when is the last time your favorite brand offered that?).

Back to the story.... Ceclia got a call from SNS-Herning director asking if she knew of any stores that SNS- Herning would properly fit in. She confirmed she would compile a list of stores and get back to them. A few days later, SNS- Herning director called asking if she knew of a store called "Dover something". He had heard a bit about DSM and thought they might be a nice retailer. Ceclia kind of shrugged off a "yea that would be nice store" but come on we all know the Mighty Dover Street Market. DSM might be one of the hardest retailer to get on board with in the past 5 years.

So the director of SNS-Herning grabbed a satchel full of sweaters and proceeded to visit this "Dover Something Market". Well DSM has strict rules about prospective brands trying to get into DSM. Brands are never allowed to show any garments inside of DSM to any staff, no matter what. Basically no cold showing of garments unless you have a direct appointment with an buyer that being Richard Johnson. Any staff member violating this golden rule will get fired on site.

The director of SNS-Herning goes inside of DSM and basically unravels this satchel stuffed packed with SNS-Herning. Of course no staff person helps him but luckily one of the buyer was on site and went down to see what was going on. After a few moments, DSM buys all the amazing SNS sweaters and the rest is fashion history..
Oh yea, the next year they invited the SNS-Herning crew to DSM and the Comme des Garçon showroom. That lovely moment the illustrious collaboration between the 2 brands was born..
I could be tuck in after hearing that.. There is hope!!

Black Market is a must stop if you are within a countries range of the store. Be on the look out for their e-commerce site coming soon and the special collection from Yohji Yamamoto cleverly named "Coming Soon" EXCLUSIVELY(we love that word) for Black Market. The collection was produced inline with Italian manufacturer SINV who also produces clothes for See by Chloé, Moschino Jeans and Red Valentino to name a few.

At 25 years of age, Black Market makes me feel like a kid in a candy store once again.
Had to grab one goody for the road....

SCENIC VIEW...

So the well anticipated Comme des Garçons x H&M collaboration dropped today. I think 4 or 5 stores received the goods throughout the 5 boroughs. I didn't check the stock list as I really didn't plan to go.... but of course I went. I didn't plan to go because I hate waiting in lines. I'm not a "line person". I just rather not go. My friends hate that. I'm just not the type to try to cut or act like "I'm somebody" usually it's not that important. Except this release was. If the line would have been crazy possible devastation, heart break, and minor disarray would have followed. If i see it there is this super power that comes over me plus how often do you really get excited to buy clothing?? Not often..





Fortunately I was good....

I purchased twins of everything I wanted. Safe buster prices.
The most expensive item I purchased was the trench for $200.

Tee ShirtButton-UpCardiganTrench

Supposedly the NYC stores bought lower quantities due to the over amount of garments with the H&M x Karl Lagerfeld collaboration. I saw a few famous japanese buyers there purchasing tons, so I'm sure it will be on ebay or Cliff Edge soon for those who missed out.

CODE NAME: RECESSION

One day sale from Barneys.. Sorry ladies only Men, kids, and home.
BARNEY'S CO-OP(not limited to NYC, all Barney's co-op in USA too)
Madison & 61st ave(NYC)

Lately, I fell like Barney's has had quite a bit of sales, not that that's bad but now you have to be a bit more selective to which ones you attend. I went to one Barney's sale recently and the only garments on sale were suits..yuck ( I like suits not yet).
In-store retail sales have become the new "open-bar" in NYC, there everywhere.

This sale may not be the same...
I'm not going to try to light a fire under anybodies arse
but yesterday one person called and told another person to tell me a message.
That message lead me to "the quiet before the storm" sort of say.. A "friends and family" environment..

I left with gold.. well tartan and GOLD accent zipper:


Regular price $195.. I paid way under wholesale.
Unbelievable almost.. Definitely woth checking out today if you have a few hours and dollars to burn.

RAINY DAYS.. .

This fall, Comme des Garçons "PLAY" is finally offer XL; "LL". Only in grey colors for now.
Comme des Garçons SHIRT will continue to offer select styles in XL size..
Picked up the new fall, Comme des Garçons SHIRT henley for $90..
Comme des Garçons "PLAY" T-shirt $120

Oh yea.. Junya Watanabe has murdered the trench coat. I don't think anybody will be able to top his fall rendition of a trench. Its like a hard nylon-canvas type outer material with a nice nod to the "Jefferson's' 80's" plaid inside-- very tasteful lining!!.
Nice detailing throughout with a sick stitch contrast that goes from tonal to white contrast. The length is just perfect because it's not long, sits right below crotch to mid zipper on taller men.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL!!!!
I thought then saw the price tag of $1,512.
I wish.. .

From My Sick Bed...

I'm so sick and unenergized at the moment.
I have some blogging to catch up on. I still have yet to post my notes from NYC trade show week.
I truly owe you guys and gals..




One of my favorites brands, Comme des Garçons, collections SHIRT and "Play" have arrived at the Chelsea location. I have yet to see it personally at CDG's Chelsea location but a friend has been keeping me up-to-par via email and web links. Another associate of mine spoke that Comme des Garçons SHIRT is "extremely RIGHT NOW this season". I think we both are filling into a new form of higher taste because honestly from what I saw of CDG's SHIRT, does not look too different but I would also agree with his comment.
I plan to attend Comme des Garçons's glorious store sometime this week.

(Elle's notes from Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2008 runway show)

[Side Note:When I say a higher taste I mean we both are t-shirt guys who loved a nice button up shirt here and there. Since the t-shirt market has became soo boring & uncreative it has almost forced me to look for newer brands who focus solely on their cut and sew program. Understanding that I am 25 years of age and caught in the middle of "what I like to wear" and "what I think looks nice on a adult".. .
I'm speaking solely for myself, I (but I'm sure he would agree) have been looking for brands with crisp cuts, nice patterns, and certain materials in their long and short sleeve button up shirts. Even polo shirts, which I though died very similiarly to the dinosaurs(one day polo shirts were here then another day gone), are making a come back i.e. check new upstarts making noise Amongst Friends...]

Aww Man.. but I'M HAPPY!!

I was told awhile back by a 'inside affiliate' that the newest collection of Comme des Garçons was arriving today(Sorry but I like to get first pick). I had actually forgot today was the relase date then I saw a guy in the black "Play" pique polo and started to worry.
Well ladies and gentlemen no worries, this vicious rumor is not true. Aww man!! I know but on the flip side, I found out the official release(not far at all) and met a new friend for sure=)..
As I was telling you, I saw some guy wearing the polo. Right after I ran back to the office to search the internet for clues. On my 'net journey, I found out that Louis Vuitton and Comme des Garçons were REALLY partnering up for that super pop-up shop concept in November. WOW. That is really cool, 2 mega fashion icons/brands can come together for the sake of fashion. I will definitely be there for monetary support this fall.. .
(via ny mag)
Save up some vacation time and cash this fall for a trip to Tokyo, because that's where the pop-up shop to end all pop-up shops will be popping up. Comme des Garçons and Louis Vuitton will open a store together for three months starting in September, where they'll offer six bags designed by Rei Kawakubo in Vuitton's signature monogram pattern. Kawakubo approached Louis Vuitton about the collaboration, and they obviously were into it; Louis Vuitton's chairman and chief executive, Yves Carcelle, sees the partnership as a great way to celebrate Vuitton's 30th anniversary in Japan.
You and we are not the only ones excited about this — Marc Jacobs is, too! "It is impossible to overstate Rei Kawakubo's influence on modern fashion," he said in a statement. "I find it wonderful to think that 30 years ago, this immense talent, someone who has inspired so many others, was inspired by Louis Vuitton.

Thank You, Sir!!!

In anticipation of the new Comme des Garçons "Play"(July 12th) I have started to research the artist Filip Pagowski. He's role in the development of "Play" is quite significant. Filip Pagwoski is the artist responsible for the kawaii heart design branded throughout the "Play" brand. A polish graphic artist, illustrator, studied painter based in New York City, Filip has worked for a slew of major companies in the past 15 years including but not limited to; Le Monde, Saks 5th Avenue, Travel & Leisure, Diana von Furstenberg, & The New Yorker and of course Comme des Garçons "Play".

My understanding of Mr. Pagowski goes back to Rei Kawakubo(川久保 玲). When I first was introduced to Comme des Garçons, I was as a consumer but also a budding designer trying to(at that time) infiltrate the fashion market. I have always felt that one should design from the heart(life, friends, tribulations, love, & what have you) because in today's market and in general, it is almost impossible to try to pin point what will really be 'in'. My journey to learning what fashion really meant to me involved me breaking down the "hype" and understand really what draws me to certain brands. Understanding why, is one of the most important roles for any fashion aficionado especially in the job of a buyer. What I necessarily like might not be what I sale but it's a understanding of what is good. The aesthetic of good(in your eye because really, what is good??).
At the moment, I can honestly say I know. I am a faithful believer in the religion of "design within design" (I have this ideology behind it, trust its intense). Basically, it is designing without taking away the characteristics of what the garment was initially used for. Simple right, not really.
I hate to criticism but so many times I have attended trade shows and am amazed how far out the box and out the window some of these pieces are. I mean, I see why brands do it. In today's day and age there are so many brands, so consumers are hardly impressed by anything(i have to touch on this too).
(Sorry I was about to go on a completely left field tangent...)
At times, I feel like collaborations are overdone. So many brands forget about the magic from an great collaboration. Alot of the collaborations now look dated and predictable. Living in NYC I can't lie,( I'm not a huge Supreme fan but I get them) Supreme does some of the best inland collaborations hands down(Hiroshi Fujiwara is King bar none, A.P.C., Head Porter Plus, Converse, Nike SB, Gortex, etc etc.. endless) . Filip Pagowski and Rei Kawakubo collaborations makes complete sense. The "Play" collections is pure garment magic. I know that goes without saying to due success of "Play" but learning the history of "Kawakubo's painter" made me realize the genius of Rei Kawakubo. Undertsanding that "Play" follows Kawakubo's "Design within design" it's like it happen by destiny. Those are the best collaborations to me.
Filip Pagowski studied at the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts under the tutelage of famed designer/professor Henryk Tomaszewski(This guy is awesome, I will definitely get back to him, ill poster designer). Tomaszewski produced most of his acclaimed work post World War II, where Poland art scene was in a controlled, state imposed censorship.

Side Note: Henryk Tomaszewski work influenced a small group called the Grapus Design Collective in France, of which Pierre Bernard(wow!!) was a founding member(I'm working on a length post about this, stay tuned..)
As I stated the earlier Filip Pagowski will have some textile illustration in the new Comme des Garçons "Play". He is currently working on projects in France, Japan, USA and constantly working in his home land of Poland.

Thank you for blessing the world with your "heart"

Field Study

This past weekend was great...
The weather played its roll and finally gave me some time to enjoy what New York City had to offer. I had so many things I wanted to see and do. I gathered together a few key essentials and was on my way.
I had planned to check out Design and Agents trade show in Chelsea before week's end. While in the area I decided to knock out some much needed shopping. Since my last Comme des Garçons "Play" purchase, I have been obsessing over their trench coat. Bad news, what seemed to be cotton online was actually made from nylon(plotting on blue tench now). Unfortunate, I walked a few doors down to Balenciaga to check out the newest collection of bags i.e. "Twiggy" bag(right, Side Note: Their mens collection is really good for spring WOW!!* I'll get back to men's Balenciaga later date).

After a few spots, I proceeded up to west 26th Street to check out D&A. I have been to D&A a couple of times but for me this one was quite slow. Didn't matter, I only wanted to check out Development by Erica Davies and Epice. For those unfamiliar with Development think "LA version of Philip Lim"(Side Note: Philip Lim was creative designer for Development previously). Not taking anything away from current creative designer Erica Davies. Her tenures at Marc Jacobs Two C Japanese line and MaxMara shows in her current designs: very clean, crisp seasonal colors at times, and extremely nice draping . As for Epice, they could have won best in show if you considered buyer traffic. Their 2 person staff was constantly busy(sorry no pics) but good women accessory line made in Paris, definitely worth checking out..

After D&A, I was slightly famished so we journeyed along the west side for food. Since my 60657 days, I have developed this appreciation for interior design(ola Chels!!) and architecture. 100 11th has to be the coolest apartment fusion " George Jetson-ish" I have every seen.

We finally settled at Bourbon Street Southern Gourmet Pantry for some good down-home cooking. I'm from Texas, so claims of good chicken or BBQ is quite comical to me but this place is official. The serving are on-point and the location makes it perfect for nice sunny days with friends. The only temporary problem is they have no liquor license(you can't even BYOB!!!) If this issue doesn't deter you, come with an appetite!!! I heard their pastries are unparalleled.
529 Hudson St (between 10th St & Charles St)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 337-0988
(No online menu or web page)

After grubbing, we walked over to west-side gem, 192 Books. Simply a dope book store. Even if your not into reading, I guarantee you will leave with/wanting a few hard and soft covers.

At this point my day was great and i was feeling fine. I remembered the Center for Modern Psychoanalytic Studies (CMPS, 16 west 10th) was doing their annual spring show so we walked a few blocks over to check out the art. A rather small showing but the view was amazing. Paul Jensen's "Punchbowl"(48"x 72", $4600) was my favorite piece there.

En route to the east-side homebase, we ran into another art show at renowned Pen & Brush gallery. The show was closing at 5pm and the time was around 4:30pm. The atomosphere was quite chill so we glanced around & enjoyed some Pinot. My favorites were "Garifuna Hut" by Deborah Cloyed(middle) & "Medals" by Angela Jimenez(right)


Ice Cube said it best......

Store Shouts!!

I like Nom de Guerre. I always have. I feel like one's fashion sense is comparable to one's personality; life's experiences, environment, society, and family play a major role in development. Up until my latter years, I have moved from appreciation to advent member of Nom's movement. Personally at 25, I have a hard time wearing a lot of brands. Not to say, I don't appreciate their contribution (well some brands) but I have grown out of that stage. Especially as a buyer at a street-wear store.
For the longest, I was a desperate fashion vagrant searching for an outlet that considered my past fashion history. A store that remembered the Stussy days, loves the peerless world of thrifting, but understands the life of an adult. Nom de Guerre is that. They have developed an unmatched habit for staying ahead of the curve. Since the creation in 2003, owners and creative directors Holly Harnsongkram, Wil Whitney, Devon Turnbull, and Isa Saalabi have molded their conundrum of a location(former meeting facility/bunker for the Black Panther party) into a cornerstone in NYC fashion.

Nom de Guerre in-house brand's newest collection for spring/sumer '08 "Under The Open Sky" follows suit with another great all around collection and sits extremely well next to my favorite brands; Comme des Garçons "PLAY" and A.P.C.. Their focus on brand consistenty has allowed them to take Nom de Guerre and their brand to new heights.

Recently, I was conning around Barney's and notice Nom De Guerre had a full racket in CO-OP floor
Congratulations!!!

NOM DE GUERRE
640 Broadway(at Bleecker St.)
New York, NY 10012

Mondays are FUNdays

Do head to Chelsea and check out out one my favorite store/brand at the moment, Comme des Garçons (french for "like some boys"). Since 1973, designer and sole owner of Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo has been on the tip of most fashion critics tongue when considering top japanese designers. Their Chelsea location reeks of "thought behind design" with a very future forward design, even for the "big apple"(check out the Aoyama Comme des Garçon store, wow!!). One of my favorite lines, Play, newest collection will be arriving early July to their chelsea location for all others as eager.
Side note: Don't be offended by the staff casually following you around the store. This technic is regarding as being polite and courteous in the japanese retail market. If your slightly familiar with Comme des Garçon then you will probably know something about high fashion designers Junya Watanabe & Tao Kurihara but did you know Undercover's designer Jun Takahashi also studied under Rei Kawakubo.
520 W 22nd St,
New York, NY 10011
Everyday 11-7
or
Dover Street Market



Don't go to Kiosk on Mondays anymore, they are closed.
Kiosk Kiosk..
I can't even start to explain how awesome this store is. Their simple slogan," Interesting things from different countries" doesn't even scratch the surface of Kiosk. Possibly the best store you never been to but walked past at least a hundred times.
95 SPRING ST, 2ND FL,
New York, NY 10012
Tues-Sat 11-7

Defintely worth checking out but again not on Mondays though.
I made this grave mistake.