Sunday, December 14, 2008

STORE SHOUTS X BLACK MARKET



BLACK MARKET
S:T ERIKSGATAN 79
113 32 STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN


GREAT STORE!!!
Great mix of brands that produce at high end quality but have a progressive design edge. Reminds me of the first time I went to Union or shopping at I heart or Nom de Guerre..

Black Market is a lot like Nom De Guerre. Not at all copying but they have a lot of the same features that make each store respectfully great: Both are underground, both are quite progressive in the brand selection, both give customers that feeling of involvement, and most importantly BOTH HAVE A GREAT UNDERSTANDING OF THE INDUSTRY & BRAND SATURATION. That is really important when finding "your" store to invest those hard earned dollars. These 2 stores won't stuck the energy out of your favorite brand.

Before I get to telling you why I adore this store so much let me state that every person I meet, during intital conversation, would make a point got to say, "Have you been to Black Market?"
Seriously.....
I thought Black Market was giving out free XBOX 360 with every purchase. Even at competing retail stores, I would talk brands/labels to the buyers or owners and always they would say either "Black Market carries them" or "Have you been to Black Market?".

Store Owner Ceclia Watson is no follower in fashion. She has top shelf years in the the industry and the knowledge to back it up. Before opening her store, she was store manager for another well known store Beneath(I think Johan from A.W.B used to own it). Beneath was a premium store located in Soderlman, Stockholm(nice area) and then later in a photo studio in Kungsholmen. Around for a little over 3 years, Beneath made a serious impact on the fashion scene stocking some of the finest in high end contemporary street like Perks & Mini, Kim Jones, Edwin, Atmos, and super rare/vintage Nikes to name a few. Beneath was also known for it's revolving art shows and collection of hard to find books, magazines, and toys. Hmm...

My first journey to Black Market was kinda funny. Located in S:t Eriksplan of Stockholm, which is where I stay when I'm in Stockholm, I had never seen this illustrious store everybody kept asking me about. I didn't know that I had actually been to the store several times thinking it was this really humble Swedish art gallery.

In my defense there was a nice exhibit by Audrey Litterman and .doris..



If I had only looked beyond the steps I would have saw their array of design and fashion books and magazines.


FOR THE WOMEN...




Full stock of luxury cosmetics offering with brands like Kiehls, Shu Uemura & Comme des Garçons to name a few








Really nice women's section...


Black Market store is something different in itself. One, Black Market has one of the best mens' section I have been to in a long time. I find that quite interesting. Most stores of this caliber usually have a very precise and calculated men's section that accentuates the women section. Those stores are good but funny, their men's section are like the "in-flight" movie for men while women shop. Like they spend just enough on men's so that there women customers don't have to hear complaints from there male counterparts. Point being, I can't remember the last time I seen such a thorough men's section.

Black Market carries a wide array of accessories, I quickly noticed the tartan Comme des Garçons fedora and wallets. Also noticed the accessories offering from Perks and Mini too.


I was saying earlier how Black Market is different and one of the most noticeably attributes is the colors, shapes, and patterns throughout the store's clothing. One of the few stores in Scandinavia(in the world) of this caliber that stocks such viberate garments. Most of the higher end stores carry only dark tonal colors.... blacks, greys, dark navys. Rather refreshing to walk into all the color and shapes displayed in Black Market underground store.

Black Market carries 2 of my favorite Norwegian/ Scandinavian brands.. Henrik Vibskov and Our Legacy.
The Vibskov cardigan is so nice. Our Legacy has really nice tartan button up shirts. Our Legacy prices are on point too. It's hard to see how they are able to produce such garments at low prices.

Black Market also stocks the new shoes from Italian mega store, Slam Jam. BePositive..
BePositive shoes kind of remind me of Clae shoes but are pretty cool in their own rite. Nice cut, not sure on the sizing though didn't try them on


Lots of Comme des Garçons love..
If Comme des Garçons was tier'd Black Market would be tier zero. They have C.D.G. pieces I have yet to see anywhere else. The striped piece to the right is one. Danish brand SNS-herning collaboration with C.D.G.. I have yet to see anybody with this piece.
I remember the days of the blazer i.e. Thanks Kanye West for making them tacky. I know most wouldn't dare wear one(especially with jeans) but this C.D.G blazer is rather tempting. I want this blazer umm hint hint..

Out of all the great brands(check their brand-list, awesome!!!) one of the best things about Black Market is the knowledge of Ceclia Watson. She told me one of the sweetest stories about C.D.G. Could easily substitute as a bed time story for any budding fashion designer.

I hope she doesn't mind me sharing this...
Okay so I was talking about Danish brand SNS-Herning. Black Market has been carrying the brand for awhile. The brand has been increasing sales every year and the buzz was starting to set.
Quick history/notes: The famous knit wear from Central Jutland, Denmark, SNS-Herning began its humble journey in 1931. Soren Neilsen Skyt, a local danish wool sweater salesman to the moor fisherman, heard of a new technicque used in hand knitting for insulation. Thinking of his local countryman who needed quality wool sweaters to bar the rough winters at sea. Skst perfected a sewing/knitting machine that could reproduce the knit technique for the above sweater properly named, "the fisherman". If you can see the sweater is knitted with bubble like sewing technique which works like a chamber to store heat, kind of insulation tactic (Think Canadian Goose of sweaters I tried it on it is super warm). If you don't believe me take the word of the sea. This particular garment is a perennial favorite amongst fisherman throughout the land.
The awesome thing is after 77 years, "the fisherman" sweater is produced in the same old manner with the same exact machine used for the first sweater. One of my favorite things about SNS-Herning is the nod to quality. Not the brand to over saturate, their production is rather small and each product is hand-signed. Oh yea "the fisherman" sweater has a life time guarantee(when is the last time your favorite brand offered that?).


Back to the story.... Ceclia got a call from SNS-Herning director asking if she knew of any stores that SNS- Herning would properly fit in. She confirmed she would compile a list of stores and get back to them. A few days later, SNS- Herning director called asking if she knew of a store called "Dover something". He had heard a bit about DSM and thought they might be a nice retailer. Ceclia kind of shrugged off a "yea that would be nice store" but come on we all know the Mighty Dover Street Market. DSM might be one of the hardest retailer to get on board with in the past 5 years.

So the director of SNS-Herning grabbed a satchel full of sweaters and proceeded to visit this "Dover Something Market". Well DSM has strict rules about prospective brands trying to get into DSM. Brands are never allowed to show any garments inside of DSM to any staff, no matter what. Basically no cold showing of garments unless you have a direct appointment with an buyer that being Richard Johnson. Any staff member violating this golden rule will get fired on site.

The director of SNS-Herning goes inside of DSM and basically unravels this satchel stuffed packed with SNS-Herning. Of course no staff person helps him but luckily one of the buyer was on site and went down to see what was going on. After a few moments, DSM buys all the amazing SNS sweaters and the rest is fashion history..
Oh yea, the next year they invited the SNS-Herning crew to DSM and the Comme des Garçon showroom. That lovely moment the illustrious collaboration between the 2 brands was born..
I could be tuck in after hearing that.. There is hope!!

Black Market is a must stop if you are within a countries range of the store. Be on the look out for their e-commerce site coming soon and the special collection from Yohji Yamamoto cleverly named "Coming Soon" EXCLUSIVELY(we love that word) for Black Market. The collection was produced inline with Italian manufacturer SINV who also produces clothes for See by Chloé, Moschino Jeans and Red Valentino to name a few.

At 25 years of age, Black Market makes me feel like a kid in a candy store once again.
Had to grab one goody for the road....

2 comments:

RP said...

Jovan,

Dope post, as always. I love those BePositive Chukkas, but they seem to only be for women. Do you know if they're coming out or are available for men?

Jovan Doe said...

Yea those Bepositives are nice..
I'm pretty sure they come in men sizes but not sure everywhere.I forgot to mention Black Market is also the distributor so they might have got them early.
Hopefully that helps...